Hotel Reviews
SO I FIND MYSELF ON A DREARY ,WET TO THE CORE SUNDAY, AND TWO HOURS TO KILL – LUNCH !
TODAY I TOOK THE LONG SUFFERING HUSBAND AND THE 16 YEAR OLD SUBWAY ADDICT TO GLASGOWS FOODY CORNER NEAR KELVINGROVE. OX AND FINCH IN SAUCHIEHALL STREET HAS JUST GAINED A BIB GOURMAND RATING AND I WAS KEEN TO FIND OUT WHY ? COULD THIS BE THE ONE , THE PLACE THAT CAN ACTUALLY DELIVER ON A QUALITY DESSERT TO FOLLOW A QUALITY MEAL ?
THE TEAM IS HEADED UP BY A FORMER CHEF OF THE MCLAREN FORMULA ONE TEAM – JONATHAN MACDONALD.
ON ENTERING IT WAS VERY MUCH IN KEEPING WITH ALL THE OTHER TRENDY BAR/BISTROS IN GLASGOW. BIG TALL CEILINGS . OPEN BRICK WORK AND FULL VIEW OPEN KITCHENS.
WE WERE WELCOMED ON ARRIVAL AND SHOWN IMMEDIATELY TO OUR TABLE, WHICH WE WERE ADVISED BEFORE DINING, TO VACATE AFTER 2 HOURS .
THE MENUS WERE IN PAPER PRINTED ON OUR TABLE AND ACTED AS A TABLE CLOTH AND SPILLAGE COLLECTOR , ALSO GOOD FOR REMEMBERING TO ORDERING EXTRAS IF STILL HUNGRY.
THE WAITRESS WAS EFFICIENT AND KNOWLEDGEABLE AND WE WERE ADVISED TO ORDER ABOUT 2 OR 3 SMALL DISHES EACH TO START WITH .
THE TABLES ARE VERY CLOSE TO EACH OTHER SO WE WERE ABLE TO SEE THE OTHER DELIGHTS THAT PEOPLE HAD ORDERED BEFORE US , HELPING US CHOOSE FROM A VARIED MENU.
THE OX CHEEK , COCONUT, TAMARIND AND PICKLED SALAD WAS INSPIRED AND SIMPLY MELTED LIKE BUTTER IN THE MOUTH .
THE VERY SIMPLE BASIL , HERITAGE TOMATOES AND BUFFALO MOZZARELLA WAS ALSO EXCEPTIONAL . THE QUALITY OF EACH INGREDIENT SPEAKING VOLUMES FROM THE DISH .
THE SOURDOUGH WAS VERY GOOD BUT I WOULD HAVE PREFERRED NON PIPED/OILED BUTTER TO BE SERVED ALONGSIDE.
THE DUCK CONFIT WAS EXCELLENT AND FELL OF THE BONE . THE LAMB WAS THE MOST TENDER I HAD TASTED IN LAMB AND ALSO BEAUTIFULLY COOKED.
THE DESSERT COURSE WAS THE REAL REASON I WAS HERE AND I ORDERED 3 . I HAD A PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE , A RASPBERRY MILLEFEUILLE AND A CHOCOLATE AND TAHINI CREMEUX , CHERRIES AND SESAME TUILE.
MY SON STRONGLY APPROVED OF HIS UPSIDE DOWN CAKE . MY HUSBAND ENJOYED THE VERSION OF MILLEFEUILLE THAT HE WAS OFFERED AND I ALSO ENJOYED MY CREMEUX. IT WOULD HAVE BEEN GOOD TO HAVE HAD REAL CHERRIES ON A CHERRY DESSERT AND I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE HAD A STRONGER FLAVOUR OF CHOCOLATE ON A CHOCOLATE DESSERT , BUT THE SESAME TUILLE WAS ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT AS WAS THE CHERRY SORBET STYLE CREAM . A VERY CHEFFY DESSERT!
ALL IN ALL IT WAS A GOOD LUNCH IN AN OVERCROWDED FOODY HAVEN, THAT IS NOW IN ALL MAJOR CITIES AND TOWNS.
THE WORLD THAT WE NOW LIVE IN IS A FOOD AGE . WE EAT OUT MORE THAN EVER BEFORE AND EVERY SECOND SHOP IS A FOOD OUTLET . EVERYBODY IS OR WANTS TO BE A CHEF . TO THIS END WE FIND OURSELVES HAVING TO RAISE THE BAR IN EVERY NEW FOOD VENTURE .
THE PRICE FOR THIS LUNCH WAS JUST SHORT OF £100 WITH ONLY ONE BEER AND A BOTTLE OF TAP WATER . NOT THE CHEAPEST LUNCH BY A LONG SHOT!
SO , ONWARDS TO MY NEXT GOURMET MEAL JEEVES AND DONT SPARE THE HORSES!!
My quest for Scotland's Best dessert, led me to Tom Kitchins Restaurant in the capital city, Edinburgh today . The Kitchin is located in part of an old converted whisky warehouse in Edinburgh's stylish waterfront.
I had been looking forward to Toms place for a while now as he is a Chef I know quite a lot about but never had the privilege of dining at any of his Restaurants.
Tom opened The Kitchin in 2006 along with his wife Michaela and between them they have an impressive CV ,not to be sniffed at !
Tom is from Edinburgh and has worked with some of the greats of the culinary world , including Pierre Koffman and his 3 Star La Tante Claire in London.
Tom is also Scotland's youngest Michelin Starred Chef/Proprietor and earned his star at the tender age of 29.
He may be more well known to you and I from appearing as a judge on the Masterchef Final on BBC.
Tom's influence and style is typically French using the very best of Scotland's larder -How could you fail ?
The philosophy is a simple one – From Nature to Plate .
I arrived early to a very slick , efficient team organising my every move from door to table.
The restaurant feels warm and inviting and the open kitchen allows the diner to watch the amazing creations taking shape.
I was served with an absolutely perfectly baked miniature sour dough bread ,already scored and steaming hot with a quenelle of soft butter . Being a baker, I was especially impressed with this bread as it was as light and crispy as you can get in a sour dough ,which can be hard on the nashers if not executed well.
My first course was brilliant , 3 x large plump,fresh Orkney hand dived scallops served In the shell with puff pastry encasing the rim. Once opened expertly by the waiter ,the creamy vermouth sauce and aroma of the scallops was jaw dropping. The flavour can only be described as the taste of the sea – absolutely wonderful.
My second course, I thought ,would have to be brilliant to beat that and it was , Medallions of perfectly pink Roe Deer served with the best tasting pink soft Rhubarb, root vegetable quenelles and a dark sticky red wine sauce – oh lord the flavours of everything were just so intense that I was in heaven.
My third course was dessert and Tom in his wisdom decided to go full throttle on this course and deliver me all of the desserts on the menu to sample . These were not sample portions so this was no mean feat . I had to eat them all you understand or I would have offended this great Chef .
First up was the warm Apple tart which was not unlike a Tarte tatin . It was simply devine with little apple pieces which had been melon balled and dipped in caramel. The caramel was crispy on the outside and soft in the middle. They were arranged around a pastry circle and served with quenelles of vanilla ice cream and hot caramel sauce.
Next up on the hit list was an unusual dessert of Buckthorn consomme served around a farm yoghurt Panna cotta and Granny apple sorbet . The Panna cotta was perfectly formed and texture was excellent ,the apple sorbet was sharp and full of flavour and the consomme was bitter and different to anything i have tasted before.
The Chocolate souffle with the chocolate sauce and chocolate ice cream was my dream dessert. The chocolate was quite obviously a high cocoa solid, dark and grainy . The souffle light and well risen and the chocolate ice cream smooth and like velvet on the palate .
But my favourite of the night came in the shape of the Knockraich crowdie cheesecake served with farm rhubarb ,rhubarb sorbet and pink pralines .
The rhubarb was earthy and softly poached , pink and bursting with flavour , definitely the star of the plate .
The cheesecake was light and full of creamy flavour . A little pink cheesecake macaron perched gently on the top of the crisp praline on the top. It was quite simply a work of art not only to look at but to enjoy .
I was offered, at the end of this extravaganza of desserts, a further Chocolate and caramel tart but had to take a doggy bag on this occassion , what a let down Melanie!
What i came away with, at the end of this evening, was the reminder of how our food should taste . The earthy full flavour of fresh organic rhubarb , the taste of the sea oozing from the giant scallops , the intense flavour from the Roe deer and the Rich , dark and bitter flavour of the excellent chocolate .
The price of this Michelin star Restuarant in the heart of the city , offering simply excellent dining, was very reasonable and affordable compared to most i have sampled so far. The gratuity once again was not added to the bill and left to the diner to decide on whether to tip or not . I was very impressed all round.
I think Tom and his team at The Kitchin have just raised the bar !
THE LOCATION FOR TODAYS DINING REVIEW WAS THE ELEGANT GLENEAGLES HOTEL NEAR AUCHTERARDER,PERTHSHIRE. FIRST BUILT IN 1910 BY DONALD MATHESON TO RESEMBLE A PALACE AND TO PROVIDE LEISURE TO THE TOURISTS IN THE FORM OF GOLF.
IT OFFICIALLY OPENED ITS DOORS AS THE HOTEL WE KNOW IT TODAY IN 1924.
IT WAS DESCRIBED THEN AS “ THE RIVIERA IN THE HIGHLANDS “ AND DEDICATED TO EXCELLENCE AND REMAINS DEDICATED TO EXCELLENCE TO THIS DAY.
I FIRST REMEMBER VISITING WHEN THE JACKIE STEWART SHOOTING SCHOOL OPENED IN 1985 AND THIS STILL REMAINS TODAY AS THE GLENEAGLES SHOOTING SCHOOL.
A LOT HAS EVOLVED OVER THE NEAR CENTURY AT THIS MAGNIFICENT PALACIAL HOTEL , NOT LEAST THE CELEBRATED SCOTS BORN CHEF , ANDREW FAIRLIE, TAKING OVER THE REIGNS IN 2001 WITH HIS OWN RESTUARANT WITHIN GLENEAGLES ITSELF.
ANDREW FAIRLIE WAS BORN IN PERTH AND HAS TRAINED WITH THE BEST FRENCH CHEFS AS A YOUNG MAN, GIVING HIM THE INFLUENCE TO CREATE IMAGINATIVE FRENCH CLASSICS WITH A TRADITONAL SCOTTISH FLAIR.
HIS LISTS OF CREDITS ARE ENDLESS, INCLUDING COOKING FOR THE QUEEN, NOMINATED ONE OF THE WORLDS TOP 10 RESTUARANTS IN THE WORLD, INAUGRAL SCOTTISH CHEF OF THE YEAR, RELAIS & CHATEAUX CHEF DU MONDE IN 2011 AND SO ON AND SO ON AND SO ON.
THE EPONYMOUS RESTUARANT IS AN INDEPENDENT BUSINESS WITHIN GLENEAGLES HOTEL AND BOASTS SCOTLAND'S ONLY 2 MICHELIN STARS.
TONIGHT WAS EXCEPTIONAL IN A SUNKEN DINING ROOM, WHICH REMINDED ME A BIT OF THE TITANIC ERA WHERE OPULENCE AND STYLE WERE ALL THE RAGE . THE SERVICE AND SOMELIERS WERE EXTRAORDINARILY EFFICIENT BUT FRIENDLY, CHATTY AND NOT AT ALL PRETENTIOUS ,SO RIGHT AWAY YOU ARE PUT AT EASE ,AS IT SHOULD BE WHEN YOU ARE EATING GOOD FOOD.
A BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED AND CRAFTED MENU WAS HANDED TO ME TO PERUSE WHILE DELICATE LITTLE AMUSE BOUCHE JUST KEPT ON COMING,ONE LITTLE BITE SIZED DELIGHT AFTER ANOTHER .
I ORDERED ONE OF ANDREW FAIRLIES FAVOURITE – HOME SMOKED LOBSTER WITH LIME AND HERB BUTTER- WHAT CAN I SAY? – THE COLOUR, THE FLAVOUR, THE TEXTURE , THE PRESENTATION ALL WERE UNLIKE ANYTHING I HAVE EVER EATEN BEFORE- JUST SUBTLY SMOKED AND PRESENTED PERFECTLY READY TO EAT FROM THE SHELL . MY FAVOURITE STARTER SO FAR IN THIS MARATHON GOURMET EXPERIENCE .
NEXT FOLLOWED THE CARDINAL SIN OF ANOTHER FISH COURSE, THE ROAST LOIN OF MONKFISH , WHITE ASPARAGUS AND CRAB VELOUTE. AGAIN I HAVE NOT EXPERIENCED SUCH INTENSITY OF FLAVOUR FROM ANY MEAL I HAVE EATEN . THE MONKFISH WAS COOKED TO PERFECTION, THE LITTLE GEMS OF JERSEY ROYALS AND ASPARAGUS ALONG WITH THE PERFECT VELOUTE WAS PERFCTION.
MY DESSERT WAS A PISTACHIO AND VANILLA MILLE-FEUILLE WITH POACHED RHUBARB AND RHUBARB SORBET.
QUITE SIMPLY A NUTTY FLAVOUR FROM THE PASTRY SHEETS WITH A DELICATE SWEET PINK RHUBARB AND RHUBARB SORBET , DECORATED WITH LITTLE PEARLS OF RHUBARB , FRESH LEAVES AND EDIBLE FLOWERS. I AM SURE THE POPPING CANDY WILL APPEAL TO THE YOUNGER GENERATION AS A BIT OF THEATRE.
I WAS IMPRESSED, AT THIS LEVEL OF DINING, THAT THE SERVICE CHARGE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE BILL AND THAT YOU AS THE DINER HAD THE CHOICE OF LEAVING A GRATUITY OR NOT. THIS AGAIN IS NOT PRESUMPTIOUS AND AS IT SHOULD BE .
THE FOLLOWING LITTLE CHOCOLATES AND LEMON CAKES WERE TOO HARD TO RESIST AND ENDED WHAT I CAN ONLY DESCRIBE AS A PERFECT MEAL . ANDREW FAIRLIE AND HIS 2 MICHELIN STAR RESTUARANT WITHIN GLENEAGLES MORE THAN LIVED UP TO HIS ENVIABLE REPUTATION. SUBLIME AND DEFINATELY WILL BE HARD TO BEAT .
The subject of my review today is Martin Wisharts Restaurant at Cameron House ,Loch Lomond. Martin was born in Edinburgh and has a further Martin Wishart Restaurant in the city- Eponymous. He started working in kitchens when he was only 15 and trained with the best including Albert Roux, Marco Pierre White and my favourite Nick Nairn . He opened Eponymous in Edinburgh in 1999 , his cookery school in 2007 and Loch Lomond in 2008. Tonight though ,and since 2011 approximately, the Head Chef at Cameron House is mostly the multi talented Graeme Cheevers. Graeme worked with Martin honing his skills at Cameron House as sous chef before stepping up and taking the role as Head Chef. This young Chef is only 28 and to produce food on this level is credit to Martin ,but most importantly to Graeme .
Anyhow back to the experience. I arrived into the main entrance of the stunning Cameron House to a beautiful reception area ,synonymous to a huge hunting lodge in the highlands , stunning and bursting with warmth from an open fire in the hallway . A lovely warm welcome at the Restaurant and we were seated in no time. I passed the most impressive trolley of cheeses on the way in which is a great marketing ploy and worked with me 100%.
When the beautiful slate plate of the sea arrived as a an amuse bouche I knew this was going to be something very special . Little open shells placed tenderly on rock salt and ice, squid ink macarons with caviar ,shrimps and so many other delicately placed jewels of the sea just so pretty and crying out for me to pick up. Totally and utterly a masterpiece ! I opted for the 8 course Taster menu and the first course was a stunning plate of Bergamot marinated sea bream with Oysters hidden in little pearls of bursting citrus and decorated beautifully again ,just too pretty to disturb . Second course was an orkney scallop – huge and bursting with flavours of the the sea, pancetta relish and potato mousseline . But for me the star of this particular dish was a little bon bon of bacon jam , salty and a stunning flavour to accompany the scallop. Third course was a Foie Gras Mousse which looked like an artists easel , with bitter little leaves , seeds and crushed walnut crumb in an olorosso sherry cream – a different level altogether of skill technique , artistry and talent . Fourth course was again absolutely genius , a small fillet of lemon sole with sprouts, parnip cream and a cappacino foam . I simply don't have the words to describe the sheer delicate flavour of this dish and the beauty of and appearance of the cucumber slaw artisticly swirled at the side of the dish – just beautiful. Fifth course was a roasted squab pigeon which was so good I actually forgot to take a picture and had it devoured before coming back to reality ,and the reason I was here in the first place . Sixth course was barbecued Black Angus Beef which I suspect was waterbathed ( A pet hate of mine ) but actually had been seared beautifully and it worked well, along with little morsels of bone marrow, caramelised onions and celeriac . Cheese was the next delight and what a delight . Great to see great big wedges of all nationalities of cheese and very informative waiting staff delighting in the expert knowledge of each one. Would have liked to have seen Homemade bread or biscuits to go along with the cheese instead of the usual offerings ,but the cheese I suppose, quite rightly is the star of the show.
Two desserts to follow and four hours later, which felt like no time at all ,and I was in heaven. I was here for the dessert course and there was two on this taster menu .
First was a chestnut parfait and apple mousse with a whole plate full of little taste bud bursting delights decoratively placed in a bowl . I can not fault any of the little bites on the plate for texture , taste or flavour but just not my idea of a dessert . The second dessert was mind blowing and was more in keeping with a Michelin Star Restaurant such as this . I am a confirmed chocoholic and this was right up my street . Full of skill , artistry , flavours and textures was the Valrhona Chocolate dense style delice with pistachio and marinated cherries , cherry sorbet and dark chocolate aero pieces . This was a grown up dessert and not for the faint hearted.
Not the cheapest meal i have ever had and the service charge, which is not optional, bumps the price up considerably . Did I feel it was worth the price , absolutely no question ,and when you appreciate good food ,prepared well and with the best of ingredients served with expertly knowledgable waiters then the price should not be an issue . I also dont mind paying to have my table for the duration of the evening instead of being pushed out after 1 or 2 hours to allow other diners in . I absolutely adored this meal and the whole ambience and will be back very very soon. This whole dining experience was on a different level to any I have experienced to date .
